A family walking holiday in Exmoor: steam trains, tree climbing, and plenty of ice cream
A solo parent shares her experience of an HF Holidays family walking trip in Exmoor, featuring guided walks, communal dining, and a glimpse into British history at Holnicote House.
Holnicote House near Selworthy in Exmoor is the base for HF Holidays, a cooperative founded in 1913 that offers family walking holidays. The Victorian mansion, which was used as Britain's first mixed-race orphanage during World War II for children born to Black American GIs and white British mothers, now houses up to 50 guests in 32 rooms.
The four-night program includes four graded walks ranging from about 3 to 10 miles. Each day, families choose their route, with stops for snacks, tree climbing, paddling, and ice cream. Guide Mary, a former geography teacher, engages children by counting tree rings and identifying leaves and bird feathers. A highlight is a walk starting with a steam train ride on the West Somerset Railway and ending at Dunster Castle.
Meals are communal, with three-course dinners, and children can opt for a kids' menu or adult dishes. Evening activities include dancing to a live ceilidh band. The author, a solo parent, notes that her three mixed-race children initially resisted but soon embraced the holiday, making friends and enjoying the outdoors. One child preferred it to any beach holiday.
HF Holidays has been operating since 1913, founded by Lancashire pastor Thomas Arthur Leonard to provide working-class people with countryside walking holidays. The cooperative spirit remains strong, with communal dining tables, organized walks, and evening entertainment. The next Exmoor Family Walking Adventures are on August 17 and 24, 2026, priced from £909 per person (under-11s free), with discounts up to £172 for Easter, August, and October 2027 dates.
