Indian craftsmanship steps out of the shadows in global luxury fashion
Mumbai-based atelier Chanakya International is marking 40 years in business, spotlighting the Indian artisans behind pieces for Dior, Prada and Fendi, even as debates grow over credit and cultural appropriation.
The Mumbai-based textile and embroidery atelier Chanakya International celebrated its 40th anniversary this month with three exhibitions tracing its evolution from an embroidery workshop into a craft and cultural institution. The company is led by 49-year-old Karishma Swali, whose father founded it in the 1980s.
Chanakya works with a network of 1,400 artisans, some representing the 13th generation of their craft, supplying embroidery to nearly every major luxury label. Among the techniques it has revived is a Mughal-era silver filigree lace, now a regular feature in contemporary couture. In 2023, Dior staged a runway show at Mumbai's Gateway of India to highlight its partnership with the atelier.
As visibility grows, so has scrutiny over whether Indian artisans receive proper credit. A Ralph Lauren gown recently drew criticism after its embroidery was widely recognised as Indian zardozi work, without any acknowledgment from the brand. Fendi also faced criticism over a bag featuring mirror-work associated with Gujarati craft traditions; its product description initially made no mention of Indian influence, though the brand later updated its labelling to credit its long-standing partnership with Chanakya.
A similar episode unfolded last year involving Prada, which was accused of appropriating the design of traditional Kolhapuri sandals. Following public pressure, Prada partnered with Indian state-backed organisations to produce a limited collection and committed to a three-year artisan training programme.
Other Indian ateliers reflect the same trend: Jaipur's Gem Palace, founded in 1852, has collaborated with Dior on jewellery inspired by nature motifs. Meanwhile, Swali founded the Chanakya School of Craft in 2016, offering free embroidery training to women of all ages, helping preserve and pass down skills across generations.
