Reading as a Fashion Accessory: The Rise of the 'Hot Literati'

The fashion industry is increasingly embracing literature. Dior has released new versions of its Book Tote bags adorned with covers of classics such as 'Ulysses' and 'Dracula'. Coach has collaborated with Penguin to create miniature literary bag charms – fully readable micro-versions of books from 'I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings' to 'Sense and Sensibility'. Miu Miu hosts a Literary Club; Chanel its Rendez-vous littéraire.

i-D magazine recently highlighted the New York-based literary journal Whitney Review, calling its team part of the 'hot literati reshaping criticism'. The founder describes the Review as 'sexy, surprising, stubborn' and its contributors 'curious and beautiful'. However, comments on i-D's Instagram were critical: 'the definition of vacuous and vapid' and 'No room for ugly literati, only HOT'.

Writer and content creator Sihaam Naik believes reading has become 'hot' due to economic pressures: 'Gen Z is a generation that will probably never be able to own houses, and so we’re more aligned with investing in taste.' Celebrity book clubs – Dua Lipa, Kaia Gerber, Reese Witherspoon – promote authors but reinforce the idea that 'something is only worth sharing online if you are conventionally attractive', creating an exclusionary barrier.

BookTok and Bookstagram promote aesthetically pleasing reading spaces. Sol Noya, a book creator, sees the trend as positive, breaking stereotypes of readers as dull. However, she notes the focus on consumption – a large book collection implies wealth and space.

Bookstagrammer Diana Clough says 'opting for analogue media over our phones is something we should wear with pride and feel sexy about'. If reading is trendy, it encourages more readers.

Naik is more cynical: 'Is it a fleeting trend, and are we going to dunk on it next year? Who knows.' According to YouGov polling, 40% of Britons had not read or listened to a book in the prior year.