Portugal's wild side: hiking the Fishermen's Trail in the Algarve
This article describes a hike along the 226-kilometer Fishermen's Trail in Portugal's Algarve region, which leads through untouched beaches and cliffy coasts, offering a contrast to mass tourism. The author and friends complete part of the route, detailing daily stages and landscapes.
The Fishermen's Trail, part of the Rota Vicentina network, is a 226-kilometer route running from Lagos to São Torpes in Alentejo. Originally used by fishermen to reach inaccessible fishing spots along the Atlantic, it now offers hikers a wild, remote experience.
The hike starts in Salema, a fishing village within the Vicentine Coast Natural Park. This quiet haven feels like a step back in time before mass tourism transformed the Algarve after Faro Airport opened in the 1960s. From Salema, we walk to Sagres, about 12 miles (19 km) along a relatively flat coastal path past golden beaches and limestone cliffs. We encounter very few other hikers.
Sagres is a historic town where Prince Henry the Navigator spent his final years; today it's known for surfing. We stay at Alojamento Mareta, a modest two-bed apartment with sea views (£78/night). Dinner is piri-piri chicken and local wine at Cafe Conchinha.
Day two takes us to Cabo de São Vicente, the southwesternmost point of mainland Europe, with a 19th-century lighthouse. The ancient Greeks and Romans considered this a sacred promontory. We then cut inland through arid shrubland to Vila do Bispo, a dusty, quiet town. We dine at Pisco, a restaurant with Mediterranean vegetarian dishes and organic wines.
Day three follows the coast to Praia da Pena Furada, a vast beach with sea stacks, then to Bordeira beach near Carrapateira, busy with Portuguese holidaymakers and surfers. We stay at Carrapateira Lodge (about £52/night) and have dinner at O Pontal, enjoying octopus and roasted cod.
Our final destination is Praia da Arrifana in the Aljezur area. Less crowded than other Algarve hotspots, it offers a relaxed atmosphere. We watch sunset at Café Restaurante Sol E Mar, a simple bar overlooking the beach.
