Le Mourillon: Toulon’s cool, beachy quarter with year-round sunshine

Why go now

Located south of Toulon’s city centre, Le Mourillon is a characterful, unpretentious seaside quarter. Once a fishing village, it now features small shops selling Provencal produce like huge garlic bulbs and vibrant tomatoes, alongside lively bars and restaurants. While not as glamorous as Antibes or Saint-Tropez, its charm lies in its authenticity.

The main draw is its beaches. Toulon is widely recognised as the second sunniest city in France, practically guaranteeing year-round blue skies and sunshine. The clear azure sea sparkles, and the beaches are lined with restaurants and date palms. Cruise ships are visible in the distance, mixed with sailing boats and fishing vessels.

Where to eat and drink

Dining is a major pastime, especially on Sundays when many shops are closed. Le Mourillon has some of Toulon’s best restaurants, most celebrating Mediterranean cuisine. Try AOC 41 for fresh seasonal dishes like confit beef open ravioli with sand-grown carrots and bourguignon jus (starters from €12, mains from €26). For a pre- or post-dinner drink, Havana Cafe spills out across the square in summer.

Near the beaches, restaurants offer set French breakfasts and freshly caught fish. La Sorga serves an unmissable Caesar salad with breaded chicken and oven-baked potatoes – best enjoyed with a glass of rosé overlooking the sea. Wine is cheap and service unhurried.

Cultural experiences

The four man-made beaches, created in the 1970s, are the main attraction. Swim in the calm Mediterranean or rent a paddleboard or kayak from the yacht club. Strolling along the promenade, watch locals play pétanque and beach volleyball, while children enjoy mini golf, trampolines, and churros.

At one end, next to a small fishing harbour, stands Fort Saint Louis – built in the 17th century and still used by the French navy (for staff lunches). In the heart of Le Mourillon, admire Saint-Flavien church (built 1868), and you might hear music or singers. Art lovers can visit the Museum of Asian Art or galleries on Rue Lamalgue.

In summer, Toulon’s jazz festival (July 26–August 8) brings free concerts to the beaches. On August 15, the Feast of Assumption features a spectacular fireworks display from the fort. In spring, La Fête de la Mer sees local producers and winemakers selling fresh oysters, baked goods, and wine and beer at the port.

Where to shop

Rue Lamalgue is a narrow street lined with Provencal buildings in pale pink and terracotta with faded blue shutters, decorated with bunting and floral lamp-posts. It’s home to independent boutiques and cafes. Visit Oblada for tasteful gifts, and Acanthe for chic French clothing. Note that most shops close for up to 3.5 hours at lunch, as well as all day Sunday and Monday.

Pick up artisan cheese at Fromagerie Grosso, meat at boucheries, fruit and veg at Primeurs Vitamine, wine at Cave Faubourg du Mourillon or La Dégust Nature, and bread and pastries at bakeries. There’s also a market every morning except Monday. Saturday mornings are when Le Mourillon is most alive, with locals ambling for fresh bread and coffee.

Don’t miss

Walking along the beaches is lovely, but the coastal paths continuing from each end are better. East from the yacht club, the path winds with steps down to tiny beaches. Past Fort Cap Brun, you’ll reach Anse de Méjean, one of the area’s most beautiful coves, almost like a tiny Greek fishing village. Toulon may not be as upscale as Cannes or Nice, but you might still see a family sail in on a yacht for lunch at L’Escale (closed in winter).

From the other end, the path winds to Plage de La Mitre, another beautiful sandy stretch.

Stay

There aren’t many hotels in Le Mourillon, but Hôtel Les Voiles offers simple accommodation with sea views (doubles from €112). Slightly more upmarket is the four-star L’Eautel in central Toulon (doubles from €119).